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Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 11:19 pm
Posts: 539
Location: Columbus, Ohio
Class: Jr. Clone
Chassis: Bandit
Engine: 4 cycle Clone
OK all you Clone heads, I got a few tips for you on your Clone engines. I have been busy building new clones and re-building used ones and want to pass along a few things to you. First off.....MAINTENANCE!!! or the lack of! I don't understand why someone would pay good money to an engine builder to build them a "Race Engine" and then treat it like a piece of lawn equipment. The worst thing I see is dirty air filters. Some you can't even shine a light thru. So....all this dirt is going into your engine and rapidly wearing away parts, not to mention cutting down the air flow to the carb making the engine run rich and become sluggish and not responsive. Second.......NOT CHANGING THE OIL! Some engines I get into the shop ...the oil looks like molasses when I drain it out and has a ton of dirt in it. This dirt is wearing away parts inside the engine, such as the rod, crankshaft, piston & rings and cylinder wall. All this said, then, they want to know why it cost so much to rebuild. Well, when you have to line hone or bore the cylinder and replace the piston and crank and rod due to excessive wear from dirt....these parts add up and the labor goes up also. A lot of damage I see is from running the 110 octane fuel. These motors don't need that and it's pitting the pistons, head and valves and seats. Every motor I've done so far that has run the high octane fuel, I've had to glass bead the piston to clean it up and the head and valves, and re cut the valve seats to get rid of the pitting, which causes valve leaking and power loss.

So...with all that are a few tips for maintaining your "Racing" engine.

1-WASH THE AIR FILTER. Use warm water and dish soap. I use Dawn(only because I use to date a girl name Dawn) They sell some K&N filter wash, but it's expensive and does the same thing dish washing liquid does. Rinse it good and shake the excess water out. Let it air dry. DON'T BLOW IT OUT WITH AN AIR HOSE. That tears the filter fabric and lets more dirt in. After it is dry, spray a light coat of air filter oil on it. Don't soak it, just a light coat to keep the fine dust out. I do a couple of these and keep one in a zip lock bag in the trailer.

2-ENGINE OIL_ Use a good light weight racing oil, such as Cool Power, or FHS Lite. I prefer the Cool Power with Castor. Put in 14 oz. of oil. Run the engine in practice and the first heat race. Change it and run the fresh oil in the second heat and the feature. At the end of the day...Drain the oil and put a piece of tape or something on it reminding you that there is no oil in it. Put in fresh oil on the next race day.
Also....remove the spark plug and add about a spoon of Marvel Mystery oil to the cylinder and rotate the engine a few times to coat the cylinder and ring. This will prevent rust due to condensation. Always store the engine with the piston at Top Dead Center and the valves closed. This should also be done every time the kart comes off the track. When you get out at the scales....pull the rope till you feel the hard spot. This is the compression stroke and the valves are closed. What this will do is prevent cold air from entering the header...hitting the hot valves, and warping the valves. If they are closed against the seat, they can't warp and cause compression loss resulting in power loss.

FUEL FILTER- How many of you actually run a fuel filter? I walk the grid every race day and see only a couple. Clean fuel is as important to performance as clean air and clean oil. Install a fuel filter between the tank and the fuel pump. Change them regularly.

So....there you have it. A few tips to keep some life in your racing engine.
I'll post some more tips as we go along. My next will be the proper way to adjust the valves for more power. In the meantime, if anyone has any questions....just ask. Thanks for listening.
Butch McCall

"It's not in my nature to spend money sparingly when I'm having a good time"

Wed May 30, 2012 10:05 pm
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